Rabbit Cage Plans

Build Your Own All-Wire Cage

Rabbit cage plans are on this page below for an all-wire rabbit cage measuring 36 inches wide by 30 inches deep.  The cage you build with these cage plans can serve as an indoor or outdoor rabbit cage. (The e-book, "Ideal DIY Rabbit Cages," can help you adjust the cage dimensions as needed. Details are below.)

This cage plan is included in each of the Raising-Rabbits cage-building e-books. Consider purchasing one of them if...

• You need a little more help building this all-wire cage, like the advantage of more photos and additional detail
  
• You know you'll want to change the dimensions of the cage
• You'd also like the plans for our PVC or angle iron hutch frames and rabbit runs...
  
• You want a full gamut of options for building rabbit cages and/or pens, at a very reasonable price.

See below! 

Two Separate E-Books OR Both E-Books in One

Do you own one or a few pet rabbits?

Pet Rabbit Living Spaces

Pet Rabbit Living Spaces is our collection of exclusive and creative DIY plans for building your own luxurious rabbit cages, hutches, runs, and pens. Included are never-before published plans and designs for cages, including some that allow nearly face-to-face interactions between bunnies and their people. These plans will please you and your pet rabbits. 

Pet Rabbit Living Spaces is available as an instant-download PDF e-book. It is a hands-on, do-it-yourself manual of plans and instructions for creating a variety of rabbit homes and exercise spaces for your pet rabbits, both indoors and outside. It's a big PDF file, full of pictures and illustrations. Click the photo or go to Build Your Own Rabbit Cage to learn more!

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Are you a meat rabbit breeder or a breeder of show rabbits?

DIY Livestock Rabbit Housing

The DIY Livestock Rabbit Housing PDF e-book offers a large choice of plans for cages, hutch frames, rabbit tractors, runs, and pens,  all specifically designed for homesteaders or those who are raising more than just a few rabbits for show or livestock.

Who says you can't build rabbit cages? With the right tools and materials, cage building is not complicated at all. Build it yourself and save a ton of money! These are QUALITY cages you'll be building: much much nicer and safer for your rabbits than cages cobbled together with cheap hardware cloth stapled to wooden boards. 

Click the pic or this link for more information, or visit our store to purchase DIY Livestock Rabbit Housing!

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Would You Like ALL our Cage and Hutch Frame Plans?

Ideal DIY Rabbit Cages

BOTH of the above e-book plans are included and available in one comprehensive PDF e-book containing ALL plans: Ideal DIY Rabbit Cages - Click the pic or this link for more info or...

Visit our store to purchase Ideal DIY Rabbit Cages!

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Free Rabbit Cage Plans

Tools and Supplies for Building Wire Rabbit Cages
Wire, J-Clips, J-Clip Pliers, Door Latches, More

Most of the tools needed to build a wire rabbit cage. From L to R: Needle nose pliers, J-clip pliers, wire cutters, J-clip removal pliers.

Cage Wire for Cage Top and Sides, and for Cage Floors

These are the materials I use to build wire rabbit cages. If you can't find them in your area, use these Amazon links to have them shipped to you:

• 1"x2"x36" 14 gauge galvanized wire (100 feet), YardGard brand - for sides and top of wire cages (ad). 
• 1/2"x1"x24" 16 gauge galvanized wire (25 feet), YardGard brand - for cage bottom (ad). When you assemble the cage, ensure that the 1/2" spaced wire is on top - the part rabbits will stand on.

Flush Cut Wire Cutters Cut Squarely, without Jagged Ends

I love flush cut wire cutters. They cut the wire flat to the other wires, eliminating those spear-shaped ends that invariably lacerate your skin at a moment's distracted notice.

• 8" Diagonal Flush-Cut Pliers (ad)
  
  

Cage Door Latches

Several kinds of cage door latches can be found - those with latches that swing down, and those with spring-loaded latches. 

My favorite latch is no longer available (pictured), but the stainless steel wire cage latches (right below) are nearly identical, at least in function....

• Finger Spring Latch Hook - 10 Pack: Pictured below left. (ad)  Also available in more or less quantities.  This latch style can be used for doors that hang down, or that open from the left or the right.
• Wire Door Cage Latches - 10 Pack: Stainless Steel (ad)  Pictured below center. Available in right-side and left-side, but honestly, either "side" can be flipped over for use on the other side of the cage. For that matter, I have also used these to latch doors that open from top or bottom.
• Wire Door Cage Latches - 25 Pack: Stainless Steel (ad)  Pictured below center. These are advertised as right-handed, but if needed, flip them over and use on the left.
• Economy Style Swivel Cage Door Latches (3): (ad) Pictured below right. Crimp the metal ends around the cage wire; the door, which hangs from the top, swings either inward or outward. The swivel prevents the door from opening, and it can also be used to suspend the door in an open position, making cleaning, feeding, or inspection chores easier.

Metal Finger Spring Latch Hooks

Stainless Steel Wire Door Cage Latches

Swivel Cage Door Latch

J-Clip Pliers; J-Clip Removers

Both j-clip pliers and j-clip removers are essential tools for building all-wire cages.

• J-Clip Pliers: (ad) I'm still using my pliers 40 years later....
• J-Clip Removers: (ad) Guaranteed to reduce your frustration when you accidentally crimp a J-clip around only one wire, or you goof up and fasten the wrong wires, or you want to repurpose used wire mesh from old, retired cages.

J Clip Pliers.

J Clip Remover Pliers. Photo Credit: Amazon.

J-Clip Fasteners

J-clips, available in one pound quantities or larger.

J-Clips - easy to apply, inexpensive, will last forever, or at least as long as a lifespan.

• One Pound J-Clips: (ad) Easy to apply with j-clip pliers
• Two Pounds J-Clips: (ad) 
  
  

Few Tools Required:

1. Needlenose pliers 
2. Flush cut wire cutters
3. J-clip pliers
4. J-clip removers
5. A couple sawhorses, for ease of working (or workbench or...)
   

Materials:

• 1 inch by 2 inch by 3 feet wire - 14 gauge: 10 feet.
  

Our rabbit cage plans use J-Clips

• 1/2 inch by 1 inch by 3 feet wire - 16 gauge: 2 1/2 feet.
  (14 gauge is better if you can find it...I use 16 gauge)
  
  
• J clips (pictured): 1 pound (less than a pound actually needed)
  
  
• 1 Door latch (pictured)
  

One style of cage door latch that we like.

• 12" J-Feeder. See picture of finished cage. You can also use a crock for food.  
  
  
• Water crock.  Or better, an automatic watering system. Edstrom makes a great system.
  
  

Rabbit Cage Plans

1) If you purchased 2 1/2 feet of 3 foot cage floor wire, this piece is ready as is. If you purchased enough for several cages, then cut a 30 inch x 36 inch piece. Use a flush cut pliers so that there will be no sharp angled ends to the cut wire. 

2) Cut the 1" x 2" inch wire to size:

• 1 piece:  36" x 18" for the cage front
• 1 piece:  30" x 36" for the cage top
• 2 pieces: 36" x 18" for the cage sides
• 1 piece:  24" x 18" for the cage back
• 1 piece:  13" x 14" for a door 

First Note:
If you cut a 24 inch x 36 inch piece of wire for the back (since the roll is 36 inches tall) and then trim it to the indicated 24" x 18," you'll have a remnant left over that is big enough to use for the door, with very little waste.

Second Note:
6 inches of cage side wire will wrap to the back on both sides, reducing the amount of wire needed for the back panel to just 24 inches.

3) Set the 30 x 36 piece of rabbit cage floor wire on your sawhorses or work space. An important caution: you need the 1/2" spaced wires to be on top where the rabbits will stand, as shown on the right. This gives improved support to the rabbit's feet.

4) Bend 6" of the side panels around a 2x4 or sawhorse, so that the final lengthwise measurement of the piece is 30" x 18".  The extra, still-attached  6" length will wrap around and become part of the back of the cage. We wanted rabbit cage plans that save time by not having to cut wire, and that will eliminate wire waste.

5) Attach the side panels to the floor with J-clips, as shown.  You can also use hog rings if you have them, and hog ring plyers. I've always used J-clips.  I attach them roughly every 2 or 3 inches.

6) Attach the back panel using J-clips.  Because you've wrapped wire from the sides, the back panel is only 24 inches wide.  There, you've saved money!

7) Attach the front panel using J-clips. 

8) Attach the top panel using J-clips. You could substitute hog rings for the J-clips in the rabbit cage plans. In that case, you'd also need hog ring pliers.

9) Locate where you'll place the door, and cut a 12" x 12" hole in the front panel.  Allow 2" of cage wire at the bottom and 4" at the top.  If you're right handed, you might find it easier to reach into the cage if the door opening is placed towards the right of the cage.  (Left side if left-handed.)  Leave about 6", however, to the right of the door, so you can attach a water valve or a hay feeder.

10) Position the door over the opening so the 14" length is top-to-bottom and the 13" length is side-to-side.  Overlap the top and bottom by 1" each.  You won't need any overlap on the side you attach to, leaving 1" overlap on the side that opens. Be sure you allow at least a 12" - 14" length of cage-front intact, in case you decide to use a J-feeder. (They'll cut down on your rabbit care time, because you won't have to open the door of every rabbit cage to feed, but they're definitely not essential--crocks work just fine, or other container that won't easily tip over.)

11) Attach the rabbit cage door with J-clips: Two at the very top bumping each other (to help keep the door positioned without sagging), a couple in the middle, and one or two clips at the bottom.

12) Attach the latch to the door with J-Clips.  There are a number of great latching systems, each designed a bit differently, but getting the job done well. 

13) If you decide to use J-feeders, now is the time to cut a 12" x 2" hole in the front of the cage, 2 inches off the floor.  The feeder will hang on the outside of the cage, and deliver the feed to the rabbit (and bunnies) on the inside.

Congratulations.  In an hour or less, you followed these rabbit cage plans and made your own predator-safe, high-quality, homemade rabbit cage.

Not everyone feels like building their own rabbit cages.

Single rabbit cage manufactured by Hostile Hare measuring 36"x24"x24".

While we think the most value for our money comes from building our own cages, we understand that some folks may prefer to save time and effort by purchasing their cages ready-made.

You'll find some top-quality ones in the Raising-Rabbits Store. 

Click here for full information about Hostile Hare, our cage manufacturer.

Top Quality Rabbit Cages Easy on Rabbit Feet from
Hostile Hare! 

Hostile Hare cages exceed our rigorous rabbit housing standards; they will serve you well for years. 

Explore the choices, and purchase, by clicking the logo or this link! 

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Raising rabbits? Consider a membership to the American Rabbit Breeders Association