Rabbit Cages: They come in a variety of styles, from wire to wood. On this page, Raising-Rabbits reviews several rabbit cage styles and designs to help you choose the best cage for your needs, whether for indoors or outdoors.
At Raising-Rabbits, we love to raise rabbits. And since rabbits each need a cage of their own, we think our own homemade, DIY-type wire cages hung on PVC hutch frames are the most cost-effective way to house rabbits.
On the other hand, if you have only one or two pet rabbits, you may prefer to find a suitable rabbit cage commercially built that will last you the life of your rabbit.
Whether you're raising and breeding rabbits, or simply caring for a really terrific pet rabbit, there is a wide variety of styles and sizes of rabbit cages available to you. What do you think about the different rabbit cages presented on this page? Many are available (most of the time) through Amazon.com. And our friends at Hostile Hare offer some amazing cages as well.
The indoor cages I have seen are either cabinet-type cages, or are cages constructed of wire and plastic parts. My biggest consideration for indoor cages is size - it will ideally be a very large cage to allow the rabbit plenty of room to move about. It also needs to have enough head room to allow the rabbit to stand up fully on its hind legs.
There are always drawbacks to mass-produced products. Plastic breaks; wood may become urine-soaked or may not fit properly. Nevertheless, with care the cages featured on this page may last for years.
The Ecoflex Indoor Rabbit Hutch is quite ingenious. (Click the Amazon Ad link here to research!)
Both the Living World Deluxe and Ferplast Krolick Plus are worthy cages.
Hostile Hare is a commercial cage construction company in Arizona. I love their workmanship! It is what caught my attention - your Hostile Hare rabbit cages will confound the most intentional of predators. Check out the Hostile Hare featured page on Raising Rabbits for more info!
These outdoor wood rabbit hutches are all similarly constructed, with a few design differences. Many of them open up nearly entirely - tops open, drop trays pull out for cleaning, a portion of the top is enclosed for privacy should the rabbit wish to retreat or kindle a litter.
As one who has constructed my own hutches, I am impressed with the creativity of design in these hutches, but a little less impressed with the quality of building materials. (If it were built with heavier materials, it would cost a small fortune, especially once shipping charges were added to the total.)
Contact of Wood With Soil:
Whenever you place a hutch directly on the ground and the rabbit has access to the soil underneath, there is potential for rotting wood and for a rabbit to tunnel out. To prevent tunneling and predator access, and to improve the longevity of the hutch, place the wood on two-inch pavers to keep it dry and off the ground. Additionally, lay some 2-inch by 4-inch welded wire mesh under the hutch and under the pavers. This will allow the rabbit to eat any grass or forages, but will prevent it from tunneling (and will prevent predators from reaching your rabbit as well).
Kindling and Raising Bunnies in These Rabbit Cages:
I love the heavy wire used in the construction of the cage. But, if you're lucky enough to raise a litter of bunnies in one of these hutches, and any of those tiny kits get lost and wander away from the nest, they could spill out of the cage and then chill to death. For the month that the doe is tending kits, you'll want to wrap the lower 4-inches of each compartment with 1/2" chicken wire which will keep the kits confined to the cage until they have grown too large to fit through the wire.
As always, wooden hutches have two main drawbacks:
You may be able to delay the eventual destruction with a steady supply of tasty and safe chew toys for your rabbits.
Commercial hutches are sometimes not made out of the strongest materials, although these hutches appear to be sturdy enough. The pluses on these hutches are:
In any run/hutch combo such as these, the grazing space will be exhausted within a few days. If you want the rabbit to continue to graze on the growing grass, be prepared to move the hutch frequently. (The fact that it separates into two pieces is advantageous.)
Also note that female rabbits in particular tend to dig; with nothing between the rabbit and the grass/dirt, you may soon find yourself trying to locate and catch an escaped rabbit. For either hutch, plan to put 1 inch by 2 inch, or 2 inch by 4 inch, welded wire mesh under the grazing space to prevent digging out.
I hope these observations and suggestions will help you identify and purchase the best rabbit cage design for your needs.
We listed a large variety of both indoor and outdoor rabbit cages available nearly everywhere in the United States.
We connected you to Hostile Hare Cages, incredibly substantial all-wire cages in multiple configurations, and available in the Raising-Rabbits store. We love them and think you will too.
Last but not least, know that you can always build your own rabbit cages so that they will be just right for your needs! Our cage and hutch plans run the gamut from small to large and include cages, hutch frames, covered rabbit runs, and much more. They are suitable for pet rabbits and livestock rabbits.
Ideal DIY Rabbit Cages INCLUDES both of the more focused ebooks below....
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Raising rabbits? Consider a membership to the American Rabbit Breeders Association