Rabbit Cages for Sale

Rabbit Cages for Sale: The best all-wire rabbit cages we have seen to date are built by Hostile Hare and are available through Raising-Rabbits.

They are ultra strong, predator-proof, have heavy-gauge floors, and can be hung or stacked.

We'll un-box a Hostile Hare cage on this page and show you why we think Hostile Hare cages are top quality...

Rabbit Cages by Hostile Hare are Really Cool

When I saw that Hostile Hare was constructing their commercial all-wire cages entirely from one-half by one inch welded wire, galvanized after weld, I was vastly intrigued. The walls and top are of 16 gauge welded wire. The floor, brilliantly, is of 14 gauge.

Unboxing the Hostile Hare Cage...

16-gauge 1/2 x 1" wire is more expensive than 14 gauge 1 x 2" wire, so why use it for the parts of the cage that don't technically need it?? 

This is why: Using one-half by one inch wire mesh for the whole cage solves at least two very common problems with rabbit cages, resulting in very happy rabbit owners:

• First, it saves bunny lives. Newborn baby rabbits manage to escape the rabbit nest box with unnerving frequency, and then they slip through the typical one-inch by two-inch cage wire sides. They fall to the ground or into the dropping pan, and crawl away blindly until they chill to death.
  
  This fate befell more than one of the kits in my barn. I discovered some kits chilled on the ground and was able to return them to their nests where they warmed up and were none the worse for the escapade. Some I located after it was too late, or never found them at all.
  
  This is the reason why some cages are constructed with aptly-named "baby saver wire," which has a 1/2" x 1" mesh covering the bottom four inches through which the little kits cannot fit. By using all 1/2" x 1" wire, Hostile Hare goes above and beyond, making it impossible to lose kits out of the cage.

Partially assembled cage, J-clips and J-clip pliers.

• Second, it virtually eliminates predators.  Predators can be a big problem, especially rats and snakes. Constructing the entire cage out of 1/2" x 1" wire will prevent both rats and snakes from getting in. It would be a very tiny beastie that would be able to squeeze into a cage through 1/2" x 1" wire. 
  
  Big Tip: Predators big enough to eat a kit CAN enter a cage through a J-feeder. They can climb into the J-feeder, and then enter the cage if the feeder is empty enough. You can easily prevent this by covering the tops of the J-feeders. Every J-feeder manufacturer makes and sells lids for their J-feeders.
  
  

Assembling Hostile Hare Rabbit Cages

Ample J-clips are included...

The top and sides of a Hostile Hare rabbit cage come pre-assembled with hog rings.

The cage itself arrives partially assembled. All four sides are already fastened together to the top panel with hog rings, and the door is pre-installed. All you need to do is to clip the sides together and then attach the floor. Easy! 

Everything needed to finish building the cage is included in the purchase, including a packet of J-clips. The J-Clip pliers will also be included in all but the smallest orders.

(The Raising-Rabbits Store price includes both cage and shipping.)

Hostile Hare Rabbit Cages for Sale:
Observations:

Heavier 14 gauge for the floor, vs. 16 gauge for sides and top. The rabbits appreciate it.

1. The j-clips sent with the cage are heavy gauge and high quality. It will take a bit of strength to squeeze them closed.
   
   
2. Cage wire is galvanized AFTER weld, contributing to the longevity of the cage.
   
   
3. Very impressive that the bottom gauge wire is much heavier than the top and sides. While the side and top mesh is 16-gauge, which is the typical gauge for cage construction, the bottom mesh is 14 gauge. You can see the difference in the photo at right. The heavier wire is very good for bunny feet because it distributes weight better and is less likely to result in foot pad sores over time. The heavy wire also helps discourage predators. The top and sides are still completely adequate.
   
   
4. The customer only needs to attach the cage sides to each other, and then attach the bottom wire to the bottom of the cage, closing the box. You will use the included J-clips and J-clip pliers. It might take a total of 30 minutes to finish the assembly. It's pretty fool-proof. 
   
   If you have any questions, Hostile Hare has made an excellent assembly video - you can view it in the Raising-Rabbits Store, or here. 
   

The Pre-Installed Door

Door is pre-installed on a Hostile Hare rabbit cage. The wire needs to be a bit straightened.

Use hard plastic door guard trim (photo credit: Amazon) to eliminate warp in the door.

The door is pre-installed. On the 24-inch-tall cage, the door is LARGE! It is comprised of a 15-inch by 25-inch rectangle that is horizontal to the cage, and which covers a hole measuring 12.75 inches tall  by 23 inches wide. This very easily accommodates a large nest box and large rabbits.

The cage that I received from Hostile Hare was fitted with door wire that was a bit warped. This problem is typical of wire that has been rolled up since manufacture, and especially in 14 gauge 1/2 x 1" wire. For this reason, a door warp is a likely risk, especially in such an ample-sized door. The warp can be reduced or eliminated by exerting pressure on the wire itself. Or, there are ways to correct it. 

Recommended: For less than $10, get some hard plastic door guard trim around three sides of the door to nearly completely eliminate the warp in the wire.

Hostile Hare Rabbit Cages for Sale:
Installation Notes

The 1/2-inch cage bottom wire is facing upwards INTO the cage.

1. Door Hardware: As you initially unfold the cage out of the cardboard box, ensure that the door hardware - already installed on the front of the cage - will be on the outside of the cage before beginning to clip the sides together.
   
   
2. Cage bottom wire: The wires that run one inch apart need to be on the BOTTOM OUTSIDE of the cage. The wires that run 1/2-inch apart need to face to the INSIDE of the cage. See photo here. This is because the rabbit's weight should be supported every 1/2 inch which is much more protective of the rabbit's foot pads.
   
   

Hostile Hare Delivers Quality

There are literally dozens of cage companies and styles of rabbit cages and hutches available to the discerning rabbit owner. We have some of our favorites, including our DIY cage and hutch frame construction manuals, listed at our Rabbit Cage page, plus links to more cages, including to Hostile Hare cages.

In my opinion, Hostile Hare cages are high quality for the following main reasons among others:

• Entire cage built with 1/2" x 1" wire, keeping baby kits in and predators out
• Bunny feet protection with 14-gauge cage bottom wire
• Durability due to wire that is galvanized AFTER weld
• Very large dimensions (36" x 24")
• Easily accessible cage interior due to a large door
• Several cage designs fit your needs: With or without drop pans, stackable or non-stackable
  
  

If Hostile Hare had been in business back when I began in rabbits, I may not have written DIY manuals - I may have simply purchased Hostile Hare rabbit cages for sale.

Raising rabbits? Consider a membership to the American Rabbit Breeders Association