Here are free rabbit cage plans below for an all-wire rabbit cage measuring 36 inches wide by 30 inches deep. The cage you build with these cage plans can serve as an indoor or outdoor rabbit cage.
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Tools required are few:
you purchased 2 1/2 feet of 3 foot cage floor wire, this piece is ready
as is. If you purchased enough for several cages, then cut a 30 inch x
36 inch piece. Cut the protruding wires flush for this and all wire
2) Cut the 1" x 2" inch wire to size:
First: If you cut a 24 inch x 36 inch piece of wire for the back (since the roll is 36 inches tall) and then trim it to the indicated 24" x 18," you'll have a piece left over that is big enough to use for the door, with very little waste.
6" of cage side wire will wrap to the back on both sides, reducing the amount of wire needed for the back panel to just 24 inches.
the 30 x 36 piece of rabbit cage floor wire on your sawhorses or work
space. An important caution: you need the 1/2" wires to be on top where
the rabbits will stand, as shown on the right. This is much easier on
the rabbit's feet.
4) Bend 6" of the side panels around a 2x4 or sawhorse, so that the final lengthwise measurement of the piece is 30" x 18". The extra, still-attached 6" length will wrap around and become part of the back of the cage. We wanted rabbit cage plans that save time by not having to cut wire, and that eliminate wire waste.
5) Attach the side panels to the floor with J-clips, as shown. You can also use hog rings if you have them, and hog ring plyers. I've always used J-clips. I attach them roughly every 2" or 2 1/2".
6) Attach the back panel using J-clips. Because you've wrapped wire from the sides, the back panel is only 24 inches wide. There, you've saved money!
7) Attach the front panel using J-clips.
8) Attach the top panel using J-clips. You could substitute hog rings for the J-clips in the rabbit cage plans. In that case, you'd also need hog ring pliers.
9) Locate where you'll place the door, and cut a 12" x 12" hole in the front panel. Allow 2" of cage wire at the bottom and 4" at the top. If you're right handed, you might find it easier to reach into the cage if the door opening is placed towards the right of the cage. (Left side if left-handed.) Leave about 6", however, to the right of the door, so you can attach a water valve or a hay feeder.
10) Position the door over the opening so the 14" length is top-to-bottom and the 13" length is side-to-side. Overlap the top and bottom by 1" each. You won't need any overlap on the side you attach to, leaving 1" overlap on the side that opens. Be sure you allow at least a 12" - 14" length of cage-front intact, in case you decide to use a J-feeder. (They'll cut down on your rabbit care time, because you won't have to open the door of every rabbit cage to feed, but they're definitely not essential--crocks work just fine, or other container that won't easily tip over.)
11) Attach the rabbit cage door with J-clips: Two at the very top bumping each other (to help keep the door positioned without sagging), a couple in the middle, and one or two clips at the bottom.
12) Attach the latch to the door with J-Clips. I use a closure called a "door latch," available in our Raising-Rabbits Store. You can find a number of other great latching systems as well, should you prefer.
13) If you decide to use
J-feeders, now is the time to cut a 12" x 2" hole in the front of the
cage, 2 inches off the floor. The feeder will hang on the outside of
the cage, and deliver the feed to the rabbit (and bunnies) on the
Congratulations. In an hour or less, you followed these rabbit cage plans and made your own homemade rabbit cage.
We think we get the most value for our money by building our own cages with our rabbit cage plans and we think you will too.
But we understand that some folks may prefer to save time and effort by purchasing cages ready-made. You'll find some top-quality ones at our Raising-Rabbits Store.
Just as easy: